Book review: The Sportsman, Stephen Harris

It’s easy to forget just how unlikely a success the Sportsman in Seasalter, Kent, has been. The selfavowed “grotty rundown pub by the sea” (check its Twitter bio) is some way out of Whitstable, perched by a sea wall on what can be rather bleak marshland. Until recently it was very much a traditional boozer, complete with sticky carpet and frosted windows.